by Sarah Venable

About Dominica

Known to the indigenous Carib Indians as Waitukubuli (tall is her body,) Dominica was the last island in the region to be colonised by Europeans. This happened with the arrival of the French in the late 18th century. Due to nature, economics, and its terrain, much of Dominica remains as they found it—lush, mountainous, and alive with rivers and waterfalls, both hot and cold!

Dominica (pronounced Dom-in-eek-a) is officially called the Commonwealth of Dominica, and is not to be confused with the Dominican Republic, which shares the much larger island of Hispaniola with Haiti.  Dominica is also known as the Nature Isle. You'll see why!

Dominica is midway down the arc of the Caribbean archipelago, between Martinique and Guadeloupe. Tiny at 289.5 square miles, sparsely populated by around 70,000 human souls, and never very wealthy, its majesty is entirely bestowed by nature.  Two thirds of the mountainous island is cloaked in primordial tropical forests, which nurture 1,200 species of plants and some interesting animals such as agouti and manicou that you are unlikely to encounter in other Caribbean getaways. Underneath it all is robust geothermal activity. 

Dominica is a very young land mass, created primarily by volcanic action that began during the Early Tertiary age, about 60 million years ago.  As recently as 30,000 years ago, the island grew significantly when an eruption of ash and pumice near the Trois Pitons filled several valleys and flowed several hundred km into the sea.  Nine of the island's volcanoes are still active, which provides the opportunity to experience such fascinating phenomena as hot springs, a boiling lake, geysers, and a near-shore area where bubbles rise from the sea. All of these help relieve the pressure generated underground.  The most seismic activity takes place in southern Dominica and off the east coast.

Nature is the star attraction here, and with miles of trails, hiking is one of the favourite ways to get involved. As your destination, choose from magnificent waterfalls, mountaintops, wilderness retreats, bubbling mineral springs, and submerged volcano craters.  For water-lovers, the snorkelling and diving are great; there's tubing and kayaking on a few of the rivers; and whale and dolphin watching are good year-round. For land-based activities, there are also botanical gardens and tours, horseback riding, and excellent bird-watching that includes brightly coloured, indigenous parrots. To relax thoroughly, soak in natural hot springs or cool off in a river pool. Hint: take a bird book; find one at   http://www.natureisland.com/bird+bot.html.

For the history and heritage-minded, the Old Mill Cultural Centre, Fort Shirley at Cabrits National Park, Dominica Museum, and exploring historic Roseau are enticing. You'll see how influences of the French, English and Carib occupants eventually converged to create a unique identity.

About those Caribs... The Caribbean was named for these Amerindians, who occupied much of the region at the time of Columbus' "discovery." There are very few populations of this pre-Colombian people remaining. One group is in Dominica, where they have a territory in the north and welcome visitors. Here, they use the name Kalinago.

The official language of Dominica is English, spoken with traces of a French accent. You may also hear Kweyol (Creole) or more rarely, Kokoy.  The culture is a wonderful mix of old and new worlds, which is also reflected in the food.

Weather

The average temperature in winter is 77 degrees Fahrenheit (25 C) and 82 degrees in summer (28 C,) and there is usually a lovely breeze. Apart from early spring, when showers are rare, Dominica can be rainy, especially in the rainforest. (Duh!) This is more often a delight than a hindrance. In a place so natural, what's a little wetness? 

Money and Currency in Dominica

The official currency is the Eastern Caribbean Dollar, but just about everyone accepts US money. The exchange rate is fixed, and a bank will give you about 2.68 ECD to 1 USD. At stores the rate is less favourable (to you.) Credit cards are accepted in larger establishments, and will give you a good conversion rate. ATMs are only found at banks in larger towns like Roseau and Portsmouth, and some of them may not accept your card, so bring cash.

Electrical Current: The voltage is 220. If your apparatus uses 120, you should either bring a little converter and adaptor, or check to see if your accommodation supplies these items. Your laptop should work on either voltage, but you'll still need an adaptor so the plug will fit the socket.

What to wear/bring

Dominica tends to be quite casual, even in nice restaurants. Outdoor clothing, particularly quick-drying fabrics, will give you the most mileage.  Your biggest decision might be footwear. To get the most out of your visit, plan to walk, and for this the best bet is amphibious shoes with good traction. Otherwise, just take your favourite walking shoes. If you really object to getting wet for any length of time, pack a light raincoat and carry it on your excursions. If you have binoculars, this is the place to bring them. A day pack is handy too, for carrying water, bathing suit and so forth when hiking.

A Few Places to See

Trafalgar Falls:  Located close to Roseau, these twin falls are not only impressive to look at but can also be enjoyed directly—intrepid visitors can swim below the smaller fall or seek the hot springs of the taller one.  A short walk from parking. No guide required.

Layou River: It's small where it runs through the Ramelton estate, and gets broader down the valley near the bottom bridge. Kayaking and tubing can be enjoyed here, as well as seeking the hot spot or just plain bathing.

Boiling Lake:  An arduous hike through the Valley of Desolation in the Morne Trois Pitons National Park takes you to this flooded fumarole where a bubbling cauldron spews vapour. Go only with someone who knows the terrain.

The Emerald Pool:  Modest falls with a grotto and a cold green pool to swim in. Located in the central rainforest, not far from Ramelton. Easy access.

Soufriere Sulfur Springs: These sulphur springs at Soufriere are a mini-Valley of Desolation. Features a wide area devoid of vegetation due to the fumes and streams of boiling hot water. The area also has a network of trails worth exploring. So says  http://www.visit-dominica.com, and you can believe them.

Champagne (Southwest, near Scots Head): You'll have to go in the sea to enjoy this treat—a thriving underwater landscape with plenty of fish where bubbles rise from the seabed to surface like living sequins.

Cabrits National Park:  This is the site of Fort Shirley, a partially-restored 18th century garrison. The views are gorgeous, the whole peninsula is scenic, and the nearby town of Portsmouth is fun to explore. There's good snorkelling and diving nearby too.

Nightlife

You won't find much, but if you crave it, consult the Dominica Food & Drink Guide, or check the larger hotels for weekend activity. At Fort Young's Friday happy hour you can encounter local people celebrating the end of the work week. In Roseau, the Symeszee Guesthouse on King George V Street has jazz on Thursdays in their bar/restaurant. The university town of Portsmouth is also a good bet for little places with something happening. On Friday evenings, most communities have a barbecue, and everyone is welcome.

Ramelton is a relaxed but elegant base from which to set off on island adventures, and a tranquil place to go "home" to afterwards. Light the candles, watch the stars drift slowly overhead, and sleep like a baby.

Useful websites

 

Recommended reading 

The Dominica Story, Lennox Honychurch

Island of Adventure, Lennox Honychurch

Dominica (Bradt Travel Guide)

The Orchid House, Phyllis Shand Allfrey

Unburnable, Marie-Elena John

Dominica: Land of Water, Jonathon Bird

Wide Sargasso Sea, Jean Rhys

Black and White Sands: A Bohemian Life in the Colonial Caribbean, Elma Napier