FOOD IN DOMINICA
Dominica's cuisine is a fascinating fusion of Amerindian, West African, and French influences, with additional contributions from East Indians, Middle Easterners and the ubiquitous Chinese restaurateurs. In local fare, expect well-seasoned dishes and delightful surprises. Try the curried goat, callaloo, one-pot stews or brafs, and the startling range of root crops. Don't miss the fresh seafood, but also try the saltfish-and-bake.
Dominica's pristine environment and fertile soil provides abundant fresh fruits, herbs and vegetables, while some of the meats and a bit of the seafood is imported. An increasing amount of the produce is organically grown. Sadly, the mountain chicken (crapaud, or large frog) for which Dominican cuisine is renowned, is no longer on the menu. The population has been drastically reduced by the twin blows of overhunting and fungal disease.
You'll enjoy both eating out and trying new things at Ramelton, whose kitchen is well equipped for culinary recreation. We suggest that you pick up a copy of Dominica Wai'tukubuli Food and Drink Guide at the airport, or do some research online at http://www.foodanddrink-caribbean.com/index.asp before you go. Here you'll find comprehensive information on restaurants, grocery and gourmet shops, as well as recipes and general information. To see and shop for the freshest local fish, fruits and vegetables, take a trip to the public market in Roseau. If you are not a resident of or a frequent visitor to the region, items such as dasheen, pomerac, cassava, wild spinach, soursop, custard apples and pomme cythere may not be familiar to you. Discovering them is part of the adventure that is Dominica.
To Drink: Take the opportunity to drink freshly-made fruit juices, which are widely available. The local beer, Kubulli, is quite good too. Rums may not rival those of Barbados, but the interesting range includes several with fresh herbs and spices steeping right in the bottle. The one with bois bande is a noted aphrodisiac for men. Do try the ti-ponche. Dominica grows both coffee and cocoa. Both are worth sampling. A wide variety of bush (herbal) tea is available, either boxed or in bunches. The water is beyond safe to drink; it exceeds international standards for purity and is delicious. In fact, the island produces three brands of bottled water. Good wines are available at Pirates and Archipelago in Roseau; Brizees in Canefield has some too. Rituals Coffee House on Bayfront in Roseau offers a range of coffees, teas, and smoothies.
Groceries: In its secluded location, Ramelton is a bit far from grocery stores. No problem. Call ahead to order supplies for your first night and morning, then stock up fully the next day. Some grocery stores are open on Sunday.
In Roseau, Pirates has good wines, cheeses, charcuterie, and more. There are also some adequate supermarkets in town, such as Whitchurch in Roseau or Lindo's in the Goodwill area just north of town. For a wide range of normal groceries along with a fair selection of table wines, Brizees is recommended. It also has a little cafe, where you can get typical local food for takeaway. Brizees is in Canefield, which is outside of Roseau, in the direction of the road to Ramelton. Parking is plentiful, and it stays open fairly late. Mam's Supermarket, Bakery, and Restaurant (traditional lunches only) in Massacre is even closer (about 20 minutes from Ramelton) and has fresh baked breads daily. For very basic essentials just a few minutes away, stop at the High Way Shop and Bar, tucked behind the first house on the right on the road down the Layou Valley. Very handy if you forgot matches!
Ice Cream: While in Roseau, visit PIWI on Kings Lane. The ice creams are locally made and many use fruits and spices from the island. You might want to bring a cooler and take a tub of these refreshing delights back to Ramelton.
Exotic condiments: Do sample local products. Bello makes delicious pepper sauce and jams, as well as fruit syrups for making drinks. Sure Lifesava makes spice blends, which can be very handy for jazzing up a simple meal at Ramelton or for taking home a bit of Dominican flavour. Nature Isle's sauces, dressings and chutneys also do the trick.
Restaurants range from very basic to fairly upscale, and serve a variety of continental, Creole, and Caribbean dishes. The small restaurants and cafes can often provide the most authentic way to sample local cuisine. Lunch may be your most satisfying experience. Not only will you avoid having to drive at night, but you'll also have a choice of places where you can first work up an appetite clambering down to a river, and then digest your meal afterwards while soaking in hot springs! If you are planning to dine out, it's best to phone ahead. Do not expect every place to be open on Sunday, or to accept credit cards. For meeting people, Friday happy hour at the Waterfront in Fort Young Hotel (Roseau) is recommended. Friday night is also barbecue night, with stands set up all over the island. You're most likely to find chicken on the grill, but may also encounter pork ribs, soups, and vegetables, or fish along the coast.
Additional resources:
http://gocaribbean.about.com/od/restaurantsanddining/Restaurants_and_Dining.htm
http://www.avirtualdominica.com/wheretoeat.cfm
From http://www.avirtualdominica.com/dining.cfm